Salsify (Scorzonera hispanica) from France — the long, dark-skinned winter root known in French as salsifis and in English sometimes as black salsify or scorzonera. The exterior is rough and bark-like, unpromising to look at, but beneath it the flesh is white, firm and unlike any other root vegetable in the kitchen. The flavour sits somewhere between artichoke and a mild parsnip, with a subtle nuttiness and a faint mineral quality that has earned it the nickname "oyster plant" — a reference to the hint of something almost seafood-like in the finish.

Salsify is one of those vegetables that has largely disappeared from domestic cooking while remaining a permanent fixture in professional kitchens across France. The reason it fell out of favour at home is the preparation: the roots exude a sticky, milky latex when peeled that discolours quickly and clings to everything. The fix is simple — peel under cold running water and drop immediately into acidulated water — but it is enough to put off anyone who does not know what they are getting into. The reward for that small effort is a vegetable with a delicacy and subtlety that very few roots can match. Poached in milk and butter, it becomes silky and gentle. Roasted in a hot pan until golden, it develops a nutty sweetness with crisp edges. It pairs naturally with fish, poultry, cream sauces and truffles.

Origin: France

Ingredients: Salsify (Scorzonera hispanica)

Storage: Refrigerate unwashed, loosely wrapped in a damp cloth or paper bag. The roots dry out quickly once exposed to air. Use within a week.